After getting the decal applied and finishing touches complete, I flew a test flight with the new Raven 3 flight computer and an Aerotech G80 motor
The flight went well, however the tape holding the motor in let go instead of the shear pins resulting in a lawn dart from 300 meters, only to be saved by the main chute poping at 500 feet. The other problem was that I did not have enough recovery wadding which resulted in the parachute getting toasted.
Flight recorder data shows that it experienced approximately 140gs upon deploy at around 275mph. All damage has been repaired and it is ready for it’s maiden flight on the I1299 in Potter, ANY on October 28th.
This latest addition to my growing collection of Project Diva: Future Tone controllers is a 1:4 scale version of the full arcade layout. At its heart is a Brook PS3/PS4 fighting board and four Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm buttons. Housed inside of a laser cut ABS case provides durability and style. In addition, this iteration features a brand new input method by means a capacitive touch sensor.
The touch pad is manufactured by Brook and has approximately the same dimensions as the Dual Shock 4 touch pad. The USB cable is detachable with a micro-XLR 4 pin connector and tech-flex covering for protection. While this is a finished prototype, the rough ABS edges are still far from perfect and will likely use white acrylic in the final version.
As for now, the controller is not for sale and the design will receive a few more iterations to increase internal space, strength, and ease of assembly. After these updates, the files will likely be uploaded to Instructables along with full assembly instructions. If I do manufacture finished controllers if anyone actually wants one of these tiny (but still fully usable) controllers, estimated price will be around $199 USD.
Laser cutting ABS is possible, however, it is not really safe to breathe and the cuts are not too clean. The following is all based off using an Epilog Helix 40 watt laser with air assist and a fume extractor. Air assist and a fume extractor are essential for ABS.
First, some background on ABS. It’s full name is Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. It has a relatively low melting point, flexibility, and strength which makes it great for 3D printing, vaccuum forming, injection molding. These same properties make it a pain on the laser as it results in yellow/rough edges and warping which moves the work piece out of focus. The other problem is when melted, ABS outgasses HYDROGEN CYANIDE which is not good to breathe so make sure you have your fume extractor set up and turned on.
To counter this I have found the following tips and tricks to minimize problems.
- Test cut a piece of your material to calibrate your settings. On white ABS for vector cuts I use 100% power, 8% speed, and 5000hz frequency.
- Use blue tape on both sides, this prevents most of the melting fro. Ruining the edges and the smoke from damaging the color
- If your work piece is large enough, use hard drives or other objects to weigh down your sheet to counter warping
- Use air assist and if possible, use a nitrogen air assist to prevent flame-ups.
- Wash your parts with soap and water after cutting to remove some of the smell
It is a tricky material and will require some fine tuning but this will definitely get you started.
The mini project diva controller I have been working on is finally in a working state. It still needs a few things before it will be a finished project.
One of the issues with a controller so small is the acrylic does not have the strength to withstand cracking, namely the corner brackets. To combat this, I will be making the final ver. out of ABS sheet instead. This does limit colors to black, grey, and white but the durability is not there otherwise. In the future it may be possible to use ABS brackets and acrylic panels if anyone is looking for different colors.
If anyone is interested, kits will be available upon request after the final version is posted.
So this year (2018) I am planning on going to MAGFest for the arcade and console games. I want to bring my full size Diva controller but it is just too damn big.
I present a work in progress…
It is a 1/5 scale replica of my full size layout. It will be using Seimitsu PS-15 buttons, a Brook PS3/4 board, some tiny 6mm buttons I had laying around, a TinyXLR 4 pin for the USB out, and probably some LED case lighting because why not? The best part is that it will have a touch slider in the middle instead of some janky button setup.
Total cost will be around $100 in parts so it is much more affordable than the full scale however I don’t know how playable it will be. Stay tuned for updates and hopefully completion.
I just saw Brian Brushwood Modern Rogue video on 3D printing keys (Here) it was very entertaining to watch them get a working key but being at a locksmith shop I thought I could do better so I whipped these up in about 30 seconds.
These were cut on a CNC key cutter with software that has key data and codes for thousands of keys. This is a pic of the software with the spacing and cut depths blurred out (I actually just knew the depths from looking at Brian’s key, Kwikset are very easy to decide by eye)
And this is the machine that does the cutting, much more expensive than a 3D printer though.
So I finally got around to cranking out the 5 hours of stitching to put this all together. In the end it turned out really well but it could probably have done well with another two card slots. I have also uploaded the files for laser cutting your own leather pieces if anyone would like to make their own. Link to files is HERE.