The Worlds Smallest Project Diva Controller: The μDiva

IMG_7883

This latest addition to my growing collection of Project Diva: Future Tone controllers is a 1:4 scale version of the full arcade layout. At its heart is a Brook PS3/PS4 fighting board and four Seimitsu PS-14-DN 24mm buttons. Housed inside of a laser cut ABS case provides durability and style. In addition, this iteration features a brand new input method by means a capacitive touch sensor.

IMG_7876.JPG

The touch pad is manufactured by Brook and has approximately the same dimensions as the Dual Shock 4 touch pad. The USB cable is detachable with a micro-XLR 4 pin connector and tech-flex covering for protection. While this is a finished prototype, the rough ABS edges are still far from perfect and will likely use white acrylic in the final version.

As for now, the controller is not for sale and the design will receive a few more iterations to increase internal space, strength, and ease of assembly. After these updates, the files will likely be uploaded to Instructables along with full assembly instructions. If I do manufacture finished controllers if anyone actually wants one of these tiny (but still fully usable) controllers, estimated price will be around $199 USD.

IMG_7884

 µDiva Progress

The mini project diva controller I have been working on is finally in a working state. It still needs a few things before it will be a finished project. 

One of the issues with a controller so small is the acrylic does not have the strength to withstand cracking, namely the corner brackets. To combat this, I will be making the final ver. out of ABS sheet instead. This does limit colors to black, grey, and white but the durability is not there otherwise. In the future it may be possible to use ABS brackets and acrylic panels if anyone is looking for different colors.

If anyone is interested, kits will be available upon request after the final version is posted.

Mini Diva Controller in the works

So this year (2018) I am planning on going to MAGFest for the arcade and console games. I want to bring my full size Diva controller but it is just too damn big.

I present a work in progress…

It is a 1/5 scale replica of my full size layout. It will be using Seimitsu PS-15 buttons, a Brook PS3/4 board, some tiny 6mm buttons I had laying around, a TinyXLR 4 pin for the USB out, and probably some LED case lighting because why not? The best part is that it will have a touch slider in the middle instead of some janky button setup.

Total cost will be around $100 in parts so it is much more affordable than the full scale however I don’t know how playable it will be. Stay tuned for updates and hopefully completion.

Project Diva Arcade Wallet Complete!

 

So I finally got around to cranking out the 5 hours of stitching to put this all together. In the end it turned out really well but it could probably have done well with another two card slots. I have also uploaded the files for laser cutting your own leather pieces if anyone would like to make their own. Link to files is HERE.

IMG_20170529_180146092img_20170529_180131663-e1496096166197.jpg       IMG_20170521_152145448_HDR

Capacitive sensors are… the worst…

So If you haven’t seen it before, this is the arcade controller I have built for the game that has been controlling my life. If you can see, there are a whole lot of little blue arrows near the top that don’t look like they are good for sliding the hand across.

img_20161105_1840031971

I have been working on a more accurate design so I thought, “Why not use arduino and a whole bunch of confusers all wired up in some convoluted way!” So I did..

img_20161211_184219472

Shes no prom queen, but even the ugly girls… After a few hours of laser cutting, cleaning, sticking tiny pads of copper, stripping a metric crap ton of wire, and soldering it up all nice, the thing doesn’t work for squat. The wires may be too long, pads too close, or whatever but it does not sense through the acrylic and barely senses when touching the bare copper. My next plan is to re make this same board but with the wires as short as physically possible, no wires touching each other, and maybe if the stars align I will have it working enough for writing the code.