After getting the decal applied and finishing touches complete, I flew a test flight with the new Raven 3 flight computer and an aerotech G80 motor
The flight went well, however the tape holding the motor in let go instead of the shear pins resulting in a lawn dart from 300 meters, only to be saved by the main chute poping at 500 feet. The other problem was that I did not have enough recovery wadding which resulted in the parachute getting toasted.
Flight recorder data shows that it experienced approximately 140gs upon deploy at around 275mph. All damage has been repaired and it is ready for it’s maiden flight on the I1299 in Potter, ANY on October 28th.
Laser cutting ABS is possible, however, it is not really safe to breathe and the cuts are not too clean. The following is all based off using an Epilog Helix 40 watt laser with air assist and a fume extractor. Air assist and a fume extractor are essential for ABS.
First, some background on ABS. It’s full name is Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. It has a relatively low melting point, flexibility, and strength which makes it great for 3D printing, vaccuum forming, injection molding. These same properties make it a pain on the laser as it results in yellow/rough edges and warping which moves the work piece out of focus. The other problem is when melted, ABS outgasses HYDROGEN CYANIDE which is not good to breathe so make sure you have your fume extractor set up and turned on.
To counter this I have found the following tips and tricks to minimize problems.
- Test cut a piece of your material to calibrate your settings. On white ABS for vector cuts I use 100% power, 8% speed, and 5000hz frequency.
- Use blue tape on both sides, this prevents most of the melting fro. Ruining the edges and the smoke from damaging the color
- If your work piece is large enough, use hard drives or other objects to weigh down your sheet to counter warping
- Use air assist and if possible, use a nitrogen air assist to prevent flame-ups.
- Wash your parts with soap and water after cutting to remove some of the smell
It is a tricky material and will require some fine tuning but this will definitely get you started.
I have been working in this new for a little bit but have not made much progress until last week.
I wanted a way to carry all of my different arcade and IC cards without filling up my regular wallet. It was all designed in CAD and laser cut.
I will probably post the files when it is all completed along with some sort of guide if anyone else wants to make either the same design or one with different art on the cover.
The “buttons” are hand tooled and painted with water based acrylic paint on vegetable tan leather and the internals are on thin pig suede. In the next week or so I should have it completed so stay tuned if you are looking to make one yourself.
Update: it has been completed 3/16/2017
So I have only owned my switch for 10 days but I am already going to tattoo the back of it. As of now I have the boundary area where the laser can go without damaging the logo or anything else.
As for the design, I am pretty much set on some sort of Splatoon design but I just have to do a whole bunch of photochopping to see what will look good. If all goes well, I will probably have it all set on Thursday.
Oh, and if anyone wants a DXF or a Corel Draw template of the boundary area just leave A comment and Il put the most up to date one on Thingiverse. (for the NA version, looks like other regions have slightly different marking layouts so the design may overlap)
I finally got around to making the short version of my magazine base for the 5.1 and 4.3 Hi-Capa. It’s up on Thingiverse (you might need to scale it up 10x for printing). I also have a base made for the FPG/Glock series which works but needs one change before I put it up.
Magazine Base (Short)
So I registered this domain like 8 months ago… Finally got around to making the site. I will probably post some of my old projects here at first and then post updates to my current and new projects as I go along.